"It's like Magic"

Bill and I just returned from a most romantic and exotic trip to Morocco to celebrate our 28th wedding anniversary. It was extrordinary and exceeded all of our expectations . I would highly recommend a trip to this magical country for anyone as it seems to have something for everyone!

We spent most of our time in Marrakech. Our first 4 nights we stayed in a tiny little Riad (Morocco's answer to B&B's) right smack in the middle of the medina (old city) within a minutes walk to the souks (markets). Our Riad Meriem was a most special place. At first we were a bit worried as we went deeper and deeper along the derbs (small streets) into the heart of the medina with a porter pulling our luggage in a hand cart. I had found the accomodation on the web and was beginning to doubt my choice. When we finally got to the tiny door in the dark and damp space I turned to Bill and said it HAD to be a mistake! But once that little door opened and we stepped into the marble coolness we knew all was going to be fine, just fine. Please see for yourself on their website. The luxury and service were beyond!

Walking, let alone shopping, in the souks, is not for the faint of heart. The number of pedestrians coupled with the variety of vehicles, most notably those annoying scooters (sorry, Cyrus) is enough to send this old girl over the top. Negoitating the sheer volume of humanity along the narrow derbs, lined with stalls is downright scary. Even in the wide boulevards, the huge variety of vehicles jockeying for position,. without any noticable rules or regulations was daunting. I asked our driver exactly how it all worked. He paused, and said, "It's like magic, madam". I thought about that statement, off and on, for the days we were there and he couldn 't have said it better. Magic. There is simply no other explanation.


Once again the highlight of our trip was a hike. A two day trek in the Atlas Mountains, to be exact. And once again the weather nearly killed us. High winds, rain and then snow nearly did me in but the destination was worth every second. Please check out Kasbah du Toubkal for all of the stunning details and photos. We started at the Kashbah, hiked to the mountain lodge and then back. The lodge has 3 rooms but the other two couples backed out due to the miserable conditions, leaving it to ourselves. I have always said that bad weather has its benefits.

I had some glorious free time to myself while Bill attended a conference. I took full advantage of this rare opportunity alone. I think the best fun was the cooking class I took. From the gorgeous venue to the participants to Mohammed the chef, it was a ball. We made a classic chicken tangine (don't pronounce the 1st "n") and a spicy cooked salad...to die for.

The hammam experience was also noteworthy. A hammam is a Moroccan spa complete with tradtional treatments that basically include washing, scrubbing, mud and bathing. My luxurious experience was quite the treat. I had two ladies in waiting and my own private pool with roses. Ahhh. I like being a kept woman while my husband is working. I think I'll keep him.

I organized my cooking class and hammam through the magnificient La Maison Arabe.

So all of this and we didn't even ride a camel. make it to the desert or hit the beaches. I am telling you once again...something for everyone!



More Highlights:
Macaroons and mint tea in the big square

Belly Dancers
Horse and buggy rides (even the locals use them!)
Snake charmers

Dates, figs and olives
Stylish restaurants
Friendly and handsome natives (those blue and green eyes!)

Sal

Service and Safari

15 days ago 11 guests arrived at the O.R. Tambo airport here in Johannesburg. They are visiting us from The First Unitarian Church of San Jose. The group leaves tomorrow after what has undeniably been one of the most gratifying experiences of my life and I know many if not all of them feel the same way. The drumming party tonight will be the grand finale of many months of planning, organizing, working, fundraising, collecting, coordinating, and researching involved in getting the details of a trip this big together.

What our group of 16 (11 visitors, the Souders plus Cheese ...a friend of Jeff’s) managed to accomplish in the last couple of weeks is almost mind boggling. The aim of the trip seemed simple enough.

”We would like the trip to include service, adventure and culture” wrote Colleen, the trip’s determined leader.

“I can do that”, I replied, never for a moment realizing what a challenge it would be to put an itinerary together for 7 diverse (and I do mean diverse) adults and 9 teens (also diverse but with the common factor of all being teens to hold them together in a tight little band of merry and ornery travelers). But our hours of planning on the back patio with our computers and cell phones made the trip fall together with the precision of a Swiss watch (except for the fact that there was a petrol crisis, a visa cliff hanger, lost baggage, too much luggage [500 pairs of "shoes for Africa"] and one traveler missing in action for 24 hours...but you must ask Robert about that story as only he can do it justice).

The night of arrival included a huge welcome party for our guests, complete with traditional South African fare, music, singing and dancing. Our tired visitors rallied to the occasion with style and grace. I had invited the volunteers, along with the principal and a few students of Khomanani Primary, in Soweto. Thato, grade 6, presented the South African flag and eloquently explained the meaning behind the design and colors. Two other students belted out the South African national anthem so beautifully that it left us speechless and in tears. It was great welcome to South Africa and a great way to meet the folks we would be working with in two weeks.

In fact, we had lunch with them yesterday when they prepared the food for us. It was a lovely, celebratory luncheon with the teachers, staff and volunteers that we had come to know so well. We ate delicious dishes of rice, pap, sam, sauces, creamed chard and Mopani (which are sautéed worms! And yes, most of us (ahem) managed to get at least one down). Culture: Check

Our road trip started with a 4 hour drive south to the mighty Drakensburg (Dragons' Mountain). You have all heard me rail on and on about this magnificent place and I must say that our guests were not disappointed. The landscape is so vast and dramatic that it truly is hard to find words to describe it. Our accommodation was The Amphitheatre Backpackers Lodge. The Amphitheatre is a towering escarpment in the Drakensburg of which we were soon to get up close and personal. It was a pleasant enough place with a great restaurant and kitchen and the view...well...words can’t describe. And, then there was Gareth. What can we say? He was our guide and companion and by the time we left, our friend. He was the brave person who led us on “The Hike” up to the tippy top of The Amphitheatre. The night before the hike not one teen raised their hand to participate. It was only after a convincing talk by the guides and some sidelong glances from parents that Maya stepped up to the plate and said she would go. Teen mentality set in and soon the whole group had signed up. It was so windy when we started that some of us who were just a bit nervous about the 10 mile trek (ahem) tried to get Gareth to call it off. It was REALLY windy. Windy enough to add an extra element of exertion, and to literally suck the breath right out of us, but he insisted that once we got around the bend it should die down. Darn if he wasn’t right. So we marched on, 5 miles up (to 10,000 feet!) then 5 miles down.

Even though the 2nd highest waterfall in the world was dry our enthusiasm was not dampened. We were ecstatic and awed by the majesty before and below us. The set of steel chain ladders drilled into face of a sheer cliff wall that we had to descend also sucked the air and words right out of us. As we started our final descent a winter storm presented magnificent cloud formations and fog, lighting the valleys and illuminating the streams far below. And what winter storm would be complete without snow? Who would have imagined, but there is was. At the end of the 6 hour hike we were exhausted and weirdly fulfilled. And guess who finished first, while singing the entire time? The teens of course. Adventure: Check!

(please click on the top left image to get a real feeling of the trail we hiked)

Perhaps the most exciting part of the trip for me was the opportunity to be able to bond with the locals in their communities. There is no better way to see the real deal than to work and eat together. Our work at the Drakensberg Orphanage and Khomanani Primary Scool was backbreaking and rewarding. At Khomanani, we created a beautiful garden space complete with a stone labyrinth, numerous new trees, plants, ground covers galore and seating made from tree stumps. We tried for a spiritual place (or Peace Garden as I heard the teachers call it) and it is, even with the honking of taxis and the city noises that come along with close proximity of one million people (population of Soweto). We also painted the library a beautiful sky blue with a stunning and whimsical mural on two walls. The look on Ya-Ya’s (the librarian's) face was priceless. Our painting team outdid themselves on that one. And the dirty work went to another special team. They drained and repaired the pond...a water feature that had been established a few years before. It had fallen into disrepair but now it is back bigger, better and stronger than before. And we were able to distribute soccer balls and t-shirts, and a couple of hundred pairs of shoes that were delivered by the visiting Americans, which is a another whole story in itself.

Carrie took it upon herself to send out a letter to the church community and surrounding neighborhoods to ask for donations of shoes. Well...it worked and she ended up with 1,000 pairs of shoes on her front lawn the week before they left. These shoes were gorgeous too. Many, many brand new pairs: crocs, tevas,

athletic shoes and high heels to beat the band. The travelers each took two checked bags: one with their clothes and the other with shoes. They showed up with 500 pairs. I am totally blown away by the generosity of my neighbors and the travelers alike. No extra shoes or luxury items for them. It all went to Africa. We handed most of them out in Lesotho (that little round country completely surrounded by South Africa) along with more soccer balls and hockey shirts.

And if that weren’t enough, we spent another awesome day with a community in the Drakensburg where we dug a hole for a septic tank from scratch, 2 meters x 4 meters x 1 meter deep, and helped mix concrete to lay the foundation for a brand new orphanage. We worked with a youth group from Belgium. The soccer game (great headshot, Melissa!) at the end of the day sealed the deal. We love Africa and helping.

(again, if you click on the images you can see more detail, such the kids holding up their new shoes)

Service: Check, Check, Check!!!

I probably don’t need to tell you that we did a lot more in each category than the stories I mentioned here. We were also able to fit in: game drives, snorkeling, bargaining, one night of a little too much wine by some of us (ahem), eating, touring Soweto - the center of the Apartheid struggle, dancing, singing, drumming, playing pool, young love, and hanging at Rosebank just to name a few. But I won’t go into details on all of that. Just know that the Souders’ are thrilled to our depths that so many of our church community cared enough to take their time, money and spirit to make the commitment and follow through to visit us. I don’t think I always remember to say how grateful we are when visitors come.

You really have no idea how much it means to us to share our lives with those we care about, not to mention to be able to show them some of the most amazing places and experiences on the planet.

And so tonight our drums will beat loud and clear throughout the white, upper class suburbs of Johannesburg. The rhythms will rise above our walls and through the electric fence and out into the night. I imagine that the folks that hear our drums will not have the slightest idea of what we are celebrating. Our weeks of service, culture and adventure are our secrets for tonight. Tomorrow we will be shouting from our laptops!

(this photo is of Bill and Colleen collecting water from the Indian Ocean for the UU Homecoming Service.)

Click here for more UU info from San Jose or South Africa.

It has only been a pleasure,

Sally (all wrapped up in Sun Goddess), Bill, Cait and Jeff and Mandisa

Statistics from the trip:

Duration: 16 days
Total travel time to and from Africa: 56 hours
African countries visited: 3 (not counting a layover in Senegal); South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland.
Kilometers driven: 2000 kilometer loop plus day trips=3000kilometers (plus another 500 for the Mom's car).
Number of species seen: ask Colleen
Total volunteer hours: 384 (not counting all of the weeks and days of pre-trip prep)
Pool games played: 56
Biltong consumed: 5 kgs
Number of djembes (drums) purchased: 5
Greek Salads consumed: approximately 150
The number of times we said, "T.I.A!" (frustrated quote meaning "This is Africa"): 200
Amount of Swazi dollars left by Carrie: 300
Number of digital photos taken (that crashed Bill's PC): 5900
Number of interviews conducted by Frances: 10
Broken hearts in Joburg (left by Kelsey and Maya): 12
Number of broken toes: 1
Number of worms eaten: 26
Number of new romances: 2
Hilarious remarks by Lori: 129
Loads of laundry by Eunice and Letitia: 50
Hubcaps lost: 2
Number of times the teen van listened to "Ohio (Come back to Texas)": 50


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Two Year Anniversary Update

We have now been in South Africa for 1 year 11 months, 3 weeks and 2 days (although I had to look that up as we have finally quit counting). Our “HUGE adjustment period” seems to be over and we have slid into the lifestyle here perfectly......well....most of the time, anyway. We are indeed, different people than when we arrived, in more than just age. We talk, act, think, eat, work and play differently. I am not saying that these changes are good or bad, but changes they are. Our friends (yes, friends!) who used to laugh at our American accents now marvel at our South African ones, especially Caitlin’s. And although the kids tease me unmercifully about my misuse of most of the slang words I try to use, I think I’m not so bad. For example: the word “shame’ is used repetitively in conversations as “Oh, that’s too bad” or just “Too bad”. So when someone tells you a story like maybe that their mother is sick or their child failed a test you nod and say again and again while they speak, “Shame”, “Shame”. My big mistake is that if I miss a green light or drop an egg, I yell, “SHAME!” when Caitlin says I should actually be saying, “SH*#!”. And it is true that while I now say “tomato” with a short “a”, I also say potato the same way and that is just wrong in any accent. They have a point, but I also use many other terms perfectly as I will try to exhibit in my update.

Bill continues to have a huge impact on the NEPAD education initiative across the continent. He has recently returned from a 4 week trip through Africa with his boss. She was very impressed by the accomplishments made and the potential to do much more. This did NOT come easily as he had a few very tough obstacles to overcome and many lessons and customs to learn. But he has gone on to do truly remarkable and great things for Africa and Cisco alike. He has traveled extensively through at least 14 African countries. He has friends everywhere we go and greets all with traditional handshakes and then hugs. I have included a website for NEPAD which may give one a glimmer of what it is exactly he does. (this photo was taken in Rwanda at the launch of the e-school)

Jeff improved so much in rugby this year that he played both the “D” and “C” team games, literally running from one game to the next. He plays “hooker”, a specialized position which means that he is in the very middle of the scrum and “hooks” the other guys in the front line together with his arms. This also means of course that he does not have his hands free when the scum actually begins and this has resulted in him getting a few illegal punches thrown to his stomach and face. Tough sport... This position also requires that he throws the ball in from the sidelines during a lineout. That talent was discovered accidentally when he threw a lost ball across the field to his coach who immediately asked him to do it again. It seems that those years of throwing an American football with Bill have paid off. The fact that he has recently become a bit sassier and much more aggressive also helps. I have seen him snarling at and roughing up the other team whereas a year ago this type of behavior would have been downright alien. Although this is not necessarily behavior to brag about, it works on the rugby field. (Jeff is in the center).

(Click here for some general info about rugby rules and positions. FYI, the captain of the SA National team, the Springboks is the Hooker)

He continues guitar, playing in two ensembles; a rock band (Pyre) and the Jr. Jazz Band at St. John’s along with taking two lessons a week. If he is selected, he will study music as a “Matric” subject. Apparently, passing the A levels in this field of study is considered quite a feather in one’s cap. .

Caitlin is excelling in event planning (coordinating and scheduling all of the weekend details for her and her ever growing group of friends). If there was any kind of award for “attention to detail” she would receive full colors. I am just happy that she continues to do well in her academics. I don’t know how, because in between sport and extra curricular activities, like being the MC in the inter house music competition; her time is stretched very thin. Of course any of you with kids know all about that. It is just so nice that she has achieved it here in this foreign land especially after having such a rough start. And back to sport, her water polo team tour next year is to Australia. There is serious excitement around here about that! (Caitlin is 2nd from the left, in black and white)

The one thing the kids don’t have and probably can’t get here is a job. We really do miss that opportunity for them for all of the obvious reasons. It is one of the sacrifices they have made by being here along with not being able to drive (18) and having the freedom and independence they did at home. These all weigh heavily on me during some of my sleepless nights when Bill is traveling. I just hope that in the grand scheme of their lives these are small details that can easily be made up in the years after our return.

Which, of course, is the big question. Well, it used to be, but we have finally decided to stay until August of 2008. At that point Jeff and I “plan” to return for him to start Standard 9 (grade 11). Cait and Bill will stay until Nov. when she’ll matriculate. Then we are all back in California where we started. Hopefully Cait will start university the following fall. This is not a perfect plan as Jeff has lost his spot in his public High School choice. That should be OK as I have learned of some other amazing schools that would also cater to his music interest. And, it means another year of being away from the slopes in Squaw Valley. But that’s OK too and we know some real nice folks that are probably pretty darn happy about that. And, who knows, really, if the curriculum here will cover all of the requirements that universities want? Caitlin may well be short in a subject or two but does she have 7 years of language and a good story, hey?

So for the past two years we have traveled to places we never imagined in our wildest dreams that we would. We have seen things that have shocked, saddened and thrilled us beyond belief. We have great photos and memories and African crafts. We’ve had visitors from our families and many friends (13 more show up on the 1^st of August...our “Service and Safari” group from church). We’ve shown our children that we are about the luckiest people on the planet and have hopefully taught them to be compassionate, global citizens. Most importantly we have had fun as a family and have laughed our heads off, from Jeffrey’s sex education classes taught by Father Michael to the ridiculous situations we have managed to get ourselves into. And we know that we need another year to get it right. What a jol it has been.

Oh! And me, you ask? What about Sally? Well, I am lekker, man....just lekker. I enjoy learning to play bridge, my school in Soweto, Sandy and Gill (aka “The eXtreme Team”, shown in photo, only one day after our death hike), and dog training (except for the total humiliation of my first competition when Mandi streaked out of the ring like a comet and ran around the entire event at the speed of light and that was the good part). I get invited out to coffees and lunches and most of my days have at least one commitment of a social sort. I run into friends at the mall and have even begun to entertain. Our 4^th of July BBQ was a blast even though we ate potato salad and ice cream in winter. All of our guests came appropriately dressed in red, white, and blue and toasted America with vigor (and not ONE rude comment was made about our current administration). And back to the “big question” of whether or not to stay another year? Well, I actually made the final decision. Universities and high school choices are one thing but what self respecting housewife in her right mind would pass up another year of full time help?

Well, it is off to the garden to braai boerwoers and brinjal. Tomorrow night: Bobotie.

Cheers,

The Souders

PS. Our photo was taken at Cape Point on our trip with Susie and David.

Souders Family Update-April 2007

We have arrived back home safe and sound after a 2500km road trip in a big giant circle from Jo’burg through Botswana and back. It was a fun and fascinating trip, once again. Our favorite part was canoeing through the hippo trails in the Okavango Delta. A real treat.

A family decision has finally been made…..da da da daaaa….We have decided that we will all stay in Jo'burg until December of 2007 .Then we will all come home for the Christmas break. In January, Jeffrey and I will stay in San Jose, Bill and Caitlin will return to Jo'burg and stay until she matriculates in Jan of 2009. We will be apart for 1 year (with many visits in between, of course).

This solution works well for all of us. Jeffrey finishes his full year at St. John’s and then returns to the middle of his sophomore year at Lincoln. That is good in a few ways, the details are too mundane to write here but it works. He really, really misses his old life and freedom. He has plans to get a job, study guitar with his favorite teacher and hang out with his friends. Caitlin has realized that she would never be as happy at Lincoln as she is at Kingsmead. She will start university in the fall of 2009, which is a year later than if she went to Lincoln….except we have always talked about a “Gap Year” for travel, fun and service anyway, so now she will only have a ½ “gap year”. BTW, that is a hugely popular thing to do in most of the world and I even think it is catching on in America. We actually met 3 young kids on their Gap Year in Botswana. They are from England and will attend Cambridge upon their return. Caitlin by the way is over the moon about living alone with Bill. She can barely wait until I leave. Hmmmm…..I think she thinks that she is going to get away with more but Bill and I will put the rules in stone before I leave. I sure will miss them but we all realize it is time. I mean she is 17 and a half, an age when many kids have left home either for boarding school or university and we feel extremely lucky to have had our closeness for such a long time. Sniff-sniff.

I will be able to go home and start riding again and remodeling the house a bit.

Bill will continue his exciting job…vowing that he never wants to work in an office situation again. We plan on moving into a flat near Caitlin’s school (may try to buy one to keep it for the World Cup in 2010, but not sure how difficult that would be). That way she can walk when Bill is out of town. We are going to get one with maid’s quarters and ask Leticia to live with us. She would be able to walk to Rosebank and do the grocery shopping and cooking and walk Caitlin to and from school (school rule). Caitlin will also try and get her Learner’s Permit so that she can drive to school and functions when necessary.

All of this is dependant on a few very important things:

--Will Lincoln accept Jeffrey in Dec. (we think “yes” but you never know).

--Can Bill and Caitlin get their Visas extended?

--Is this OK with Cisco?

All in all this has been an incredible opportunity for us. No regrets at all!

Much Love,

Sal

Souders Family Update-March 2007

So, as you all have heard by now, Bill has been helping a guy from Oprah’s Angel Network and was invited to the launch of a magnificent farm school right in the middle of a township (very poor black settlement) in the South Africa province of Kwa Zulu Natal. Oprah was there and yes, he met her! She clasped his hand in hers and said she had heard of him and would he please help her at the Girls’ Leadership Academy near Jo’burg (the big school you have most likely heard about). He said she was warm and friendly and the entire event was very nice. He even met Gail (her best friend, for those of you not in the know about Oprah). I was quite jealous to say the least!

The previous weekend we were in Cape Town to watch Bill ride in the Argus, which is billed as the world’s largest timed cycling event. It was truly exciting. About 35,000 cyclists participated. Bill said that of al the rides he has done in his life this one was by far the most beautiful and dramatic. He rode 110 hilly kilometers and we are all very proud of him. “Not bad for an old geez” as Caitlin so kindly put it.

I drove our van back from Cape Town the long way (taking the most scenic routes through The Great Karoo). Although I didn’t get to see any of the famed Cape cobras or yellow pythons I had a truly magnificent time. I stayed in some lovely guesthouses, bought ostrich eggs and mohair scarves, ate great cheese and drank good wine. Ahhh….I needed that nice break.

And, speaking of cycling, we both participated in the inaugural “Tour de Soweto”. We had a wonderful day pedaling around the township, waving to the crowds that came out to greet us. It was an attempt to get whites into this completely black area. I invited two of my South African friends who had never been there before and we all had the time of our lives!

Jeffrey stayed back in Jo’burg to play baseball and participate in the St. John’s talent show. He was part of a skit that involved him being on stage in front of the entire school, family, friends and faculty in his boxers. The skit called “The Matrix in 5 Minutes” was apparently a huge success. Baseball has also turned out well as he has been chosen to play for the under sixteen Gauteng Provincial team. He gets 4 days off of school to go to the big tournament. It involves a lot of practice but he is extremely excited. It will be announced to all of the St. John’s boys at the next assembly. That helps take the sting out of being placed on the D rugby team, again. Next week he plays in a rock ensemble for the competitive Inter House Music tournament. He is playing bass for the 1^st time. Bill heard them play yesterday and says they actually sound good.

Caitlin and I head off to Ethiopia on Saturday. She is going to teach high school kids internet skills including getting them all set up on MySpace and Facebook. She is hoping to provide them with a lot of her friends’ email addresses for pen pal purposes and is trying to coordinate a live chat with her school here. It should be a great experience for us both.

She will then head to the south of France (with the rest of her French class) for her 2 week home stay. She and her dear friend, Pippa, will be roommates which makes it a little less intimidating.

Last week on Career Day, she went to work with a classmate’s Dad who is a plastic surgeon. She got to see “ a boob job and lots of other cool stuff”. She loved it and continues to consider it as a career. I don’t know whether to be happy about that or not.

We are currently planning our Easter Break. We were going to try and get to Mozambique for a week of diving but some cyclone damage has nixed that idea. Now we are thinking of a long road trip through Botswana. Did you know that Botswana is only 3 ½ hours from Johannesburg? It is supposed to be quite the place to visit: safe, good roads and lots of elephants and crocodiles.

We will be making a big family decision this week about the course our lives will take over the next couple of years. Our original two year commitment is up in August! After reading this letter I am sure you can imagine how tough the decision is. There is so much opportunity here for us it makes it hard to leave. But there is so much waiting for us at home it makes it hard to stay. We will let you know when we figure it out.

Lots of love,

Sal.

Our South African Christmas-2005

Our South African Christmas

‘Twas the week before Christmas and all through Jo’burg
Not a creature was seen, not a creature was heard.
The streets were all empty; the lights were turned down,
The masses have fled to the beach in Cape Town.

All but the Souders, ‘cause we are still chillin’
From a year that, to say the least, was fulfillin’
For we packed it all up and moved far away
To South Africa! Where we are challenged each day.

For Bill is a Fellow for Cisco this year.
He travels the continent delivering networking gear.
He visits his schools in the most remote places.
His biggest reward is the smiles on kids’ faces.

Cait’s a Kingsmead girl who works hard each day,
But on the weekends it is nothing but play,
From party to party and mall to mall,
She’ll have a big decision to make in the fall.

Jeff has made his place at St. John’s College.
Next year he’ll add Zulu and French to his knowledge.
He’ll be a “Remove” in a house called “Hill”
There’ll be many duties for this pledge to fulfill.

And Ma, each day, many kilometers she drives
Dodging taxis, running robots, somehow she survives.
First to school, then it’s food that she must hunt and gather.
Oh, for a ride with “The Babes”… she would rather!

Next year things will be different, it’s clear
As she begins to cycle and then volunteer
Her family is settled, things are in place
It’s now time for Mom to find her own space.

We decided we needed a dog for protection
So, Mandi, our Ridgeback was our selection.
‘Though her name means “Sweet” in the local tongue,
I promise you, our bitch is not always all fun.

Took Aunt Amy to the bush on the greatest safari,
Then we went on to Durban for the fresh calamari.
Had a beautiful hike in the great Drakensberg
Saw Bushman paintings on rocks, quite superb!

We really enjoyed our tour of Soweto
Which some in America would call just a ghetto.
But is has a cool vibe and here’s a fact hard to beat:
Mandela and Tutu lived on the same street.

We learned a lot during our stay in Rwanda.
The Genocide Museum gives one much to ponder.
We think about both those who died and survived
And marvel at this country that seems so alive.

How they have managed is a very good reason
Not to forget, in this holiday season,
That our daily troubles are so very small,
Compared to most Africans, we have it all.

So for Christmas this summer, we feel far away
But our friends from Brazil are coming to play.
We miss you all lots, but know we’re alright.
“Merry Christmas to All, and to All a Goodnight!”

Hello Friends and Family,

This is my first official update and I have lots to tell so here we go…

We have been in Africa for 7 weeks, 6 days and 12 hours, but who’s counting?

Well, we are I suppose. Although we are happy, it has been a HUGE adjustment for all of us in so many ways that I won’t ever be able to relate or even know how this adventure has already changed our lives.

Bill’s project is really starting to energize and that in itself is very rewarding. He will have his first launch in Rwanda on October 21 (my 50^th). He will meet with the President and Prime Minister, along with hundreds, possibly thousands of Rwandans for the official ceremony. As some of you know, our family spent 8 days in Rwanda in August. It was a trip of a lifetime. While Bill traveled to his 6 school sites, the kids and I traveled on our own visiting several towns in this scenically stunning country. We hooked up in the end for our first safari before traveling back to South Africa.

Rwanda is a short 3 hour fight from Johannesburg but years away in every other respect. It is underdeveloped in just about every sense and almost everyone is very poor. But, I must say that most of the people seemed content if not downright happy. Life is hard work for all, regardless of age or gender. The roads are always filled with pedestrians carrying food and water, on their heads, bikes or backs. I was told that most people walk up to 20km a day for the essentials. And, I must add that it isn’t flat. Not at all. In fact, Rwanda is called “Le Pays des Milles Collines” (Land of a Thousand Hills). Steep hills. To watch the people carry their huge loads up the steep hills was truly unbelievable. Talk about being shape!

I am writing a little story about our adventures in Rwanda which I hope to post someday on our blog (under development). One story that I will share however is about Bill visiting his schools. They are in very, very remote areas that visitors never see unless they are working for National Geographic. At one school he saw a woman wearing a “Pizza A Go-Go, San Jose” T-Shirt. At another school they had prepared a “gourmet” meal for him that he still isn’t quite sure what it was. He was the only one at the table using utensils, politely cutting up the “meat”, in his suit, while the rest dove in with their hands. On the way to the last school their 4 wheel drive vehicle broke down in the jungle. To make a long story short, Bill hitched a ride with a complete stranger, 3 hours to the nearest town AFTER being surrounded by monkeys and glimpsing a leopard. So yes, his job is challenging in many ways!

The kids are in their 4th week of school. Again, interesting. Both go to private, Anglican, single sex schools. St. John’s College for Jeff, Kingsmeade College for Cait. I still wake up at night, wondering why I didn’t think the American International School was a good idea. It certainly would have been easier. The uniform requirements alone are daunting…everything down to pencil cases, summer, winter, sports, dress, casual…oh my gosh you can’t believe the wardrobes (not to mention the expense). We wake up every day and try to figure out what it is they are supposed to wear. And then of course the subjects…Zulu, Afrikaans or French? Rugby or Cricket? How about Net Ball? Prayers, hymns, rules, mass, “yes, sir”, “no, sir”, “pardon, ma’am?” Jeffrey was harshly reprimanded for saying, “Huh?” To say the least, it is different than Hoover and Lincoln.

That being said, we finally are starting to make sense of the homework assignments and schedules. We attended a meeting at St. John’s this week where Jeffrey was assigned to a “house” for his college years (high school to us). We learned about the initiation process, hierarchy, and curriculum. It is extremely impressive and I wonder if when it is time to leave, he won’t want to stay. Caitlin has a big community service project this weekend and has started being tutored in French and Spanish. She has 11 classes a day! Her schedule is completely overwhelming to us. It took us two weeks to figure out what she is actually taking and it certainly seems to be comprehensive. She started training for Water Polo this week and we are all just hoping that she makes the team. Jeff is playing hockey and is taking golf lessons from the resident pro at the new “golf facility on campus”. I think that’s beside the B&B and pub that are also on campus. Speaking of which, Caitlin went to her first High School party and some of the kids were smoking and drinking. The party was at a girl’s house; the parents were there and didn’t seem to care. Jeffrey is also participating in Basketball and Cricket (total humiliation but we sure do give him credit for trying) and lastly, was asked to be the guitar player in the St John’s Jazz Band. He is taking lessons from Oscar, who is teaching him African Jazz,

Our house is modest compared to some but comfy enough for us. The neighborhood is called Saxonwold and is considered to be one of the finest. It is in the “old and leafy” part of town. I counted 75 Jacaranda trees on our street alone and apparently it is quite the sight in November. We have a housekeeper, Eunice, 2 full days a week. She is part of the family already. The kids absolutely adore her. She keeps the house clean and does all of the laundry. Everything gets ironed…..sheets, towels and Bill’s boxers! Brave woman.

Tabo is our gardener/grounds person. He is a sweetheart who plays with Mandi while gardening, tending the pool, sweeping and washing our cars!

Johannesburg is big. Traffic is a mess. Safety, a huge concern. We are constantly being warned about what and what not to do: hide your cell phone and purse while in the car, don’t walk here, don’t walk there, don’t ride your bike alone, always be looking over your shoulder, keep your doors locked at all times, don’t trust anyone. We know that we have to be careful and we do our best and so far we have felt safe. Our house is a fortress: wall, electric fence, guard, you name it so we don’t worry, while we’re home. But apparently we will be car-jacked and robbed at least once while we’re here. You’ll be the first to know.

There is also great shopping in Jo’burg, fabulous restaurants and quite the scene for the arts, which we still need to check out. It is loaded with culture and diversity which makes us feel good. The weather is fabulous.

I would say we are still a bit lonely. Our social scene is dismal but that just means we get to spend more time together and that is a good thing. I noticed today that we’ve made several accomplishments since arriving: I hardly ever get into the left hand side of the car and jab my keys into the glove compartment, I don’t get lost every time I go out, I know how to park at the mall (it’s not easy!), I’ve managed to switch to a standard shift (with my left hand), we’ve opened and actually operated our new bank accounts, got a dog (Mandi! An adorable Rhodesian Ridgeback), We know that “just now” means in a little while and “now now” means a in a long while, I don’t look at the handicrafts that the street vendors hawk so as not to be surrounded, I have 3.5 rand ready to buy The Star from my car each morning and we always have our flashlights on hand, with full batteries, for when the power goes out…which can happen at any given moment. We now have a home phone, cell phones, fax and wireless access. Let me say that acquiring each of these was a huge process. I also survived the first big thunderstorm of the season this week. Only one person was killed, so it wasn’t that bad. I hear that November should keep me on my toes.

Bill leaves for Sydney next week and then travels to Mauritius and Cape Town. He just spent a week in Dubai. This is just the beginning of a huge travel schedule for him. It is tiring but exciting. We are planning a ski trip in Europe over the holidays and may be able to squeeze in a road trip to Mozambique for Caitlin’s 16^th birthday. She wants to become certified to dive. I will watch from the beach. We are wildly anticipating a visit from Amy, in November; boy is she going to get the royal treatment.

I think we are all a bit surprised about how entirely different it is here. I think we thought that since English is the first language and that Johannesburg is so cosmopolitan that we would fit right in. We weren’t really prepared for how difficult it has been to become adjusted. We have a long way to go but when I think back to when we first arrived I can’t believe how much we’ve learned.

If you are on this list, we miss you…a lot! If you want to be removed, let me know or if you have any questions, please write. I will get back to you…just now.

With pleasure (pronounced: playzha),

Sally

PS It can take 10 days to 2 weeks for mail…so get those Christmas Cards out early!